I had the 10-18 when I had APS-C cameras, and kept it for some time after I bought my first FF camera, and it works with very minimal vignetting on FF. The 10-18mm is actually one exception, you get FF coverage at 12mm, and outside that, you get minimum vignetting. If the OP plans to eventually buy FF "FE" lenses, then it might make sense to buy a FF sensor body. I just did not want the OP to make that mistake. In the case of the A7C, you are spending substantially more than the cost of an A6600, with a huge drop in resolution in crop mode (3936X2624 = 10.3 Mp for the A7C in crop mode versus 24 Mp for the A6600). In the case of the A7RIV, you are spending almost three times as much as you would on an A6600, for a modest and barely noticeable in practice resolution gain. Of course 26.0 Mp is more than 24 Mp, but in practice it will be difficult to actually notice that modest difference, hence my recommendation that it doesn't make sense to buy a FF sensor camera if you are only going to use APS-C crop lenses. The highest resolution Sony APS-C camera gives a 24 Mp resolution image. When you shoot the A7RIV in crop mode, you get an image that is 6240X4160 or 26.0 Mp, not 28 Mp. In either case, it really doesn't make sense to buy a FF sensor camera unless you are going to use "FE" or FF lenses most of the time.Īn APS-C crop of an a7RIV file results in a 28 megapixel image, which is higher resolution than the latest Sony APS-C cameras. A camera like the A7RIV makes more sense, because it has a lot more pixels. If your desire is just experimentation and cost savings, then I see no reason to care about what the sensor size is.The A7C is not an ideal FF sensor camera to use with APS-C or "E" lenses, since it is not a high resolution sensor. Using that lens on full frame will satisfy you more if that character is what you desire most about the lens. When you use a lens like this on APS-C, that effect is mostly lost, because the cropped out portions of the image circle are the areas where this curvature/swirl is most prominent. For example, the Russian Helios 44M and 44-2 58mm f2 lens is known to have a "swirly" effect in the out of focus background areas wide open. One other important point is that some vintage lenses are popular because they have some desirable "character" to them. I read a lot of people like to use vintage lens, manual adapted "old" lens on their FF body, like the A7.īut how does they perform on APS-C body? Should I still consider them or they arent really recommended if I use APS-C?Ī lot of these responses have appropriately covered the issues relating to image quality using a lens designed for FF on APS-C. The APS format AF lenses usually have some suffix on them, such as DX (Nikon), EF-S (Canon), E Mount (Sony, "FE" is FF). That includes Nikon AI, AIS & pre-AI, Olympus OM, Contax-Yashica, Pentax K, M42, M39, Minolta MC, MD, etc., Leica M, Leica R, Exakta, Topcon, Rolleiflex, Praktica and many more. Later, in the digital era, various flavours of APS became common.īasically, all common MF lenses are "Full Frame". A digital sensor of that size is now called "Full Format" or "Full Frame".Īll lenges designed for such cameras would project an image circle covering at least 24x36mm (except circular fisheyes). I dont know if they meant to be used on FF or APSC.ģ5mm film cameras took 24x36mm images (with very few exceptions, which were then called "half frame" or something similar). I am planing to get some older Nikon lens like Nikon F mount, MF lenses (AI or AI-s). Well, I am not sure what are they designed for. If you're using good lenses, the argument that cropped cameras are using the "best part" of the lens doesn't ride.Īfter extensively using legacy lenses on both cropped and full frame cameras, I far prefer and have gotten better results with FF, even with teles. Lenses tend to do better on the format they're designed for, especially wides!
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